We headed to the airport to pick up our rental car, and drove up to North Zealand- where Frederiksborg is. We intended on renting the smallest most affordable car available, but the guy gave us a huge Ford Stationwagon instead! Cruising on the clean Scandinavian streets was refreshing considering we were on the right side of the road, and after driving in Zimbabwe, and dodging buses in England, it was welcome rest. The drive to the northern bit of the island was only supposed to take an hour, but due to some map mistakes it took nearly 2. Regardless, the drive outside of Copenhagen into rural Denmark was enchanting.
I was struck at how pastoral it all seemed- and if it weren’t for the sleek economical European cars wizzing past me, I would have thought we were driving through the midwest with rolling farm hills, green pastures, and windmills dotting the undulating horizon. Mikaela was glued to the passenger window, and kept saying how she wanted to move to Denmark. As we drove past lakes, and glimpses of vast tracts of untouched pine forest dotted with the occasional red framed house, I could see why she was drawn to the place. But as it was darkening quickly, I was getting nervous that we would get lost.
The Hansen side of my family traditionally (as far as we can tell) have lived in the little outpost of civilization of Orby, and the surrounding villages, since the 18th century. Next door is Tisvildeje, an old fishing village turned sleepy vacation town, and adjacent to both of them is a city called Vejby which is where the area church is perched on one of the many hills overlooking the area.
While farmland still dominates the scenery, residential homes, quaint and not so quaint, seem to be slowly encroaching on the non-chalant horses and cows grazing nearby. During the summer, the area explodes with art festivals, flower patches, crops, and paste-white Danes trying to get their yearly overdose of Vitamin D at the beaches. But once autumn settles in, the colorful shops close down, the homes shutter up, and whomever is left seems to hunker down as the temperamental Northern Sea hammers the island for the long winter months.
Before the tourists, however, the town used to be fishing village and probably remained so for hundreds of years at least until the Vejby church was built in 1100 AD. It was to this church that we went to in the morning in search of my ancestors.
After driving through Orby (about 2 streets) lined with cool moss covered homes and shiny BMW’s grinning in open aired car parks, we drove to the Vejby church. It was at this church that Lars and Petronille Hansen (who came to the US in 1868, and are buried in Logan, Utah) were married in 1851.
To walk through the old door (which has rune-like Danish carved into it) they most likely walked through as well, was pretty neat. Inside the church we found an old stone baptismal font with a silver christening basin (made in 1829) on top. This, I am pretty sure, is the same basin where the original Christian Hansen was christened in 1856. To be in the same spot where my ancestors were was a pretty neat feeling.
Outside of the church there is a large cemetery, but we had no luck finding anyone we knew as the latest relative would have been buried in the 1830’s, and most of the graves, it seemed, were pretty recent. A short excursion to the caretakers house where the official records were examined confirmed that we were unlucky to find anyone there. It seems that after a number of years older graves were dug up, and interred somewhere, to make way for the newly dead. Hence R.I.P. should mean “Rent In Peace”. Any records older than a hundred years, we were told, are shipped to Copenhagen. At least next time we know where to go!
With time running short before we had to drive back to Copenhagen to catch our flight, we drove to the sea where we dipped our feet in the freezing water.
On the drive back to Copenhagen, I had some time to reflect and realized that I hadn’t found what I was expecting in Denmark. All my life I have had this belief that I had a connection to Denmark as I had always proudly said to others that I had Danish heritage; Christian Hansen, I found out, is the most popular Danish name; each Christmas we would have a “Danish dinner” with meat, potatoes, and boiled red cabbage (which I forced myself to eat each time); we even did (and still do) the almond-rice pudding tradition. But beyond those traditions, I didn’t have any other connection other than in word alone.
What I did find was a renewed gratitude for my American heritage, and an increased appreciation for the sacrifices my ancestors made for new lives abroad. The last Hansens that lived in Denmark, left in 1868.
Lars and Petronille, (grave in Logan, Utah with Petronille's name with American spelling) and their 10 year-old son Christian met Mormon missionaries in Denmark, were baptized into The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and joined part in one of the great American stories- the Mormon trail west. The family arrived in Utah after an arduous journey by ship, rail, and wagon and Lars and Petronille died a few years later in Logan. But their son, Christian, went on to have a completely different life than his parents, and any other Hansen before him. Instead of living on the same ground that had bound his forefathers for centuries, he started a new family- a new life- in America. Today, nearly 150 years after they made their move, we are still being impacted by the lives they lived and the heritage they left. If it wasn’t for their sacrifice, nothing would have happened.
It is the connection to that heritage that I came to realize, because I saw in a small way what they had to leave. The incredible thing about this is that every other American has a similar story as well.
In a way, I found what it means to be an American, in Denmark.